North of Palawan: rivers, villages and many many pesos

And that is how I decided to come back in San Vicente after I left it just for having a look in El Nido for few days. The experience was so frustrating that I had to run away. The crowd and the sadness of mass tourism has killed my joy for exploring new places.

Enjoy this little paradise before somebody realize its beauty and start to build shameless pieces of concrete everywhere to improvise facilities.

There is a river long enough to be paddled for a good hour or more. I just explored it from my cottage to the sea and once taking an other road in a certain split. The first would take towards the fishing village, the second is a narrow passage onto some water palms labirinth.

I stayed in Farmbelle cottages which it wasn’t cheap compared to what happend in the little town of San Vicente. There you can find double room with fan for 500pesos or 600 or 1000 if with airco. In Farmbelle we are around 1200pesos. This was a good deal for us to stay closer to the long beach and renting a motorbike in town for 500pesos per day the distance was easy to manage. In town, which is around 3km away from the main access to the long beach you can find shops, restaurants and bar. There is a public market with fresh fishes and veggies, there are a couple of second end clothing shops and a very cute food court with 7 eating spots. I liked the local food served in a sort of buffet with many different choises (if looking for more veggies better to go for lunch than dinner). Good food is served also at Mango bar and the restaurant besides it. The local buffet set ups are of course the cheapest option to eat in town. Don’t look for wine or western food here. It would be a very disappointing choice. Go for fruit shakes at Mango bar that are amazing or the Tanduay local rum with kalamansi juice always available.

There are massive plans to make San Vicente become a new El nido. For sure it has the potential, and it has much more space and options to grow faster and better than the packed and cahotic El Nido. The harbour area is massive, the long beach is 14 kilometers of pure beauty. The surrounding area is luxuriant. Waterfalls and rivers are other chilling spots and very often you can see buffalo chilling as well in the middle of the rivers or rice fields.

My favourite swimming spot was where the river ends on the long beach. The Bighao waterfall are alse reachable by motorbike and a good refreshing spot although they are little and if unlucky you get there where other 10 people come with a tour from Port Barton. It’s one hour and a half drive in a very dusty sometimes sandy road beacuse is under construction and it will connect San Vicente to Port Barton.

Bighao waterfalls are closer to Port Barton than San Vicente. Infact we chosed to keep on going on the same coastal road till Port Barton to get back to San Vicente form the main road/highway.

Hospitality in San Vicente is now modest and cheap and when I compare the service I got in Port Barton and El Nido, I wish this place will not follow the same path. Port Barton and El Nido had been growing in a savage way and they claim importance as well as lot of money for a service that is far from being decent.

Highlights on Pipa beach in 5 points

This stunning place is about 80 km south from Natal, capital of the State Rio Grande do norte. It’s a cute village with many restaurants and hospitality facilities due to his recent growing in tourism. Pipa is actracting people for surfing and kite surfing, but the truth is that this place is just one of the most beautiful in Brazil. To get there by car it’s quite easy (even by bus). Just need to go off from the highway at the Goianinha little town and you will be right in the Tibau do Sul municipality.

1 Coming from the village you’ll reach the beach from above. Little colourful buildings around you are houses, shops and restaurants. During the low tide, the beach unveils rocky spots that create little lakes and sandy lagoons in wich you can chill sitting in the clear waters.

     I loved to take a photo shoot in there. The place is so various that looks like a water park where people are passing by looking for their own “lake” among the rocks. Water is calm due to the reef that protects the seafront from the big waves of the Ocean.

2 The village is tiny but fervent. There is a high presence of Argentinians business and tourists. It looks almost like an argentinian enclave. It’s very common to hear spanish speakers in Pipa because of that. Night life is nice especially thanks to the live concerts offered by Taipa, restaurant and bar.

     I was there during the low season and I was quite surprise that during those (just) three months of low season there was still a lot going on.

3 On the side of Pipa beach there is a big, long and gorgeous cliff at least 10 meters high. Its colours vary from red to yellow passing by pink and orange. The rocky wall is coverd by a forest, and some of this vegetation is part of the Santuario Ecologico.

     I loved to appretiate the differences in between the tides in this place cause the cliff seems higher when the sea is going almost against it and lower and some sort of smoky or smooth when you see the moisty air on the seafront space when the sea is less pushy!

4 Praia do Golfinhos lays straight after Pipa beach (heading north). It is just superb and when you are pacient enough you can even spot some dolphins around. The shore was so huge and flat that people where arranging football fields and games in the wet sand during the low tide. The cliff here looks even more majestic. Swimming in there can be a bit rough because of the waves: in this part of the cost the reef is missing.

     By the time I came back from the walking to praia do Golfinhos what it was a diversified space with ponds, sand and rocks has become a whole normal beach. The sea (the tide) took over.

5 Chapadão. At 15 minutes walking from the village (heading south) there is a very special lookout: a big system of terraces going flat but steep to the sea.

     I went there to enjoy a nice sunset watching the ocean. Obviously, the sun is going to set behind your shoulders but this is the little compromise you need to accept when special places in the world are facing Est.

I turn 30 and I’m free (some lines I wrote for my birthday, the 25th of November)

The last decade has begun with two mourners that have struck me deeply. I’ve being followed by that cloud of bad feelings during my whole twenties. I can’t say they were horrible; better than the teens, for sure. Many things had happened, including moves, delusions, achievements, and doors slammed in my face. At the beginning of my young life I was a teacher of righteousness. I was good at being in advance in everything, especially in time, in reasoning, in reaching a goal. The ambition that always moved me did not even allow me to be competitive, to look around and compare myself to others: there was no time for these stupid things. I was good at doing many things and I expected the world and its inhabitants to reward me with their graces. This has never happened, especially from its inhabitants, who, despite having studied them long and wide, continue to cause me an immense discomfort and make me feel the need to go to lick my wounds in solitude more often than expected. I remember the times when I used to say that hard work would be rewarded. I have a word for those who still believe in it: “bullshit”. Just bullshit. What is rewarded is when you decide to fuck it all and decide to break through the door that has always been slammed in your face or write on it “Fuck you”, turn and walk away. Those are the finest satisfactions I have ever taken: me, my personal growth and the times when even if the world shows me how unjust it is, I look at him with my glittering eyes and tell him: sooner or later everyone slams the useless baby toe into the useless corner somewhere, somehow. 8d927b37392659.5606670fa529dI grew up in a wonderful place where despite the people I love are always there to wait and show me their affection they often have been the ones to make me suffer the most, with their prejudices and their biases. My mother is the exception. Despite her atavistic negativity, that is the result of ages of watching corruption, bad politics, mafia, and all kind of usurper exploiting us since many centuries, I believe she comes from a parallel universe: her mercy has always misguided me. She can do something I’m trying to do since a longtime now: “Do not bring rancor.” When I was little, except for my closest relatives (which are very special in this) every time I was curious about something, I was answered: “What’s for?” That, translating intonation and Sicilian sarcasm, means “let it go, it’s hard, you’ll probably won’t make it, this is not for you. ” Honestly, I think it is a miracle that I came out as I am from such an ineffective environment, devoted to the impossibility and poor ambition. I am astonished less and less, because in the rest of the world it does not work that way and, since I’ve lived in the rest of the world, I tend to forget the bitterness of an uncle or a relative who “stifles” your abilities. I promise myself that I will smile every time that this will happen in the future rather than get angry. As far as I am concerned, it is ten years that I’m getting all that I want, for terribly contorted and disgraced ways, and I do not think many can say the same. I can, aloud. I have always had very few money and earned with a lot of effort, but this did not stop me from appreciating the slowness of real travels, the struggle for survival and the “barefoot” conquest of what freedom, happiness, knowledge were for me. The difficulties did not stop me from pointing my finger on a globe and saying “I’ll go there” and do it in reality. In my homeland it is always said “no”. It’s an interlayer! Even when we agree with someone we say “no” to intervene. It is amazing how much this attitude for years transmitted makes you become an exile if you do not want to accept it or one of the many “sad” being if you accept it. This mystical impossibility (which in Sicily makes people answer to you questions “no, it can’t be done” and even if you ask why it is not possible to solve that problem, especially bureaucracy related, they answere “because it is so”) made me so angry that I started to denounce my hometown problems with complains that nobody has ever listened to. I started to cure myself with travels, music and moving in a very special city like Turin, which has given me friendships I can swear will last forever. Thos special human beings took me by the hand when my anarchy began to overwhelm the bigots around me, they taught me the beauty of the “blurred edge” while my “sunny” attitude was only admiring the “bright” side of things, they showed me that it is not necessary to hide myself only because I’m a bit different. cropped-fotor_145369593632151Then, It comes about the international friends who have helped me understand that the world is mine, and that love has infinite shapes, apple-shaped, home-shaped, sometimes grave-shaped, sometimes shapeless. Since then, since I only know how to make shabby shapes and chaotic things, I decided that I would have given so much love, free love, row love, fine love, in fact, inform love. Whenever I am tempted to judge a behavior or a choice of life I will ask myself a thousand times if it is not the case to learn again and to accept a new existence shape among my limits. I wish everyone to be free, to love without being “choked”, to be gentle and to send what makes you sufferto the hell, like I did yesterday that I quit my job! I’m going to build new dreams for the next decade, I know already they will be a million …

Week twentytwo in Australia

Learning to skate: I got a huge bruise on my back. I just dove into the concrete like it was fresh water.
I’m improving my standing up, especially because I got a very meaningful present from a very special person: A real australian Penny!!!

Even if I’m giving up searching for full time jobs (it is more clear now that australia doesn’t need skilled people, or “cultural advisors” from abroad) I enjoy a nice local activity at least.

Week twentyone in Australia

Safety is the feeling I have everytime I walk from work to come back home. When I think about it the only time I ‘ve got this feeling was sailing across the Pacific ocean. This is a really huge difference here but I think is also because the space is really wide, there are many “residential” places where nobody is actually walking: that’s why nobody can possibly annoy you. But still, when I hear from some friends oversea I feel sorry for them, because this is an issue in Europe: you need to plan your paths very well if you don’t want to have surprieses.

Week nineteen in Australia

I’m focusing on “ornaments” with one of my piano students and on the scales and tonality with all of them. 
This is the part of the theory of music in which you understand why music in the ancient roman period was part of the “quadrivium” together with geometry, arithmetic and astronomy! It’s so interesting to see how logic can become a system of sounds in a instrument made to simplify and adjust in few rules the cahos and the beauty. “Scaring” but interesting! Logic, for sure!

I love my job at the market. It makes me meet many different people, exchanging recipes and comments about the silly weather. We are all looking forward to have warm feet again! 

Week eighteen in Australia

It was like coming back in Italy. I worked hours and hours on the applyication for the italian public school board for teachers. It is like swimming against the courrent because the gouvernment website is quite impossible to understand. Once you succeed to have the application form in your hands your problems are just about to start. It is written in a special language made with the special purpose of being incomprehensible and to be filled with data from the stone age, absurd to tell and impossible to find (some questions sound just like “which colour was the chair of the first left-handed classmate you had?) Seriously?

You have no choice: you need to feel that form closing your eyes and hoping that the answer is pertinent. That is Italian bureaucracy